Flint Hills National Wildlife Refuge, just north of Hartford, Kansas – Okay, I’m too noisy to sneak up on the ducks who reserve this area for their beach parties. Though it’s mostly iced over, I saw groups of mallards swimming in a few spots of open water. I’ll be sneakier next time. But this is prime real estate for waterfowl. The horizon is filled with living clouds of them, sweeping, arcing, catching the light.